Buddleja

Family. Buddleiaceae.

Where does it grow? Madagascar.

Description.  Ornamental buddleja is a very showy evergreen plant for large sunny rooms or greenhouses. Fast-growing, upright shoots of this shrub can reach a height of 1.8 - 3 m or more.

Lanceolate dark green leaves 13 cm long. The underside is covered with white soft, short pubescence.

From late autumn to spring, small, bright, blue, white or purple flowers appear, collected in thin pyramidal inflorescences reminiscent of lilac. The buds fill the air with a light fruity aroma that attracts butterflies. A very unpretentious and easy to grow genus.

Height. Up to 3 m. Develops relatively quickly, branches can grow from 60 cm to 2 m in height in one year.

Planting and care

Keeping in open ground

Plants are planted in open ground when the threat of return spring frosts has passed and the soil has warmed up well.

Before planting, the seedlings are hardened, gradually accustoming them to new living conditions. During the day, the containers are taken out into the fresh air and left outside for 1-2 hours. Over the course of 1-2 weeks, the time spent outside is gradually increased to 24 hours.

For planting, choose a place protected from strong gusts of wind, where there is no surface groundwater. Areas located in lowlands and prone to flooding are not suitable for planting buddleja.

The bush should bathe in sunlight for several hours a day, but the shoots and leaves should be shaded during the day. The area is dug up and weeded.

Planting holes are prepared at a considerable distance, since the plant grows in width, not in height - for example, for tall varieties, you can use a planting scheme in which the planting holes are located at a distance of 3.5 - 4 m from each other. The minimum distance when planting is 1 m.

Sometimes several specimens are planted in one planting hole at once. The depth and width of the holes should be 40-50 cm.

Buddleja requires sufficiently nutritious and loose soil, so heavy clay soils are lightened by mixing a significant amount of sand into them, and nutrient-poor soils are improved by adding organic matter in the form of well-rotted cow or horse manure and humus. Also, a nutrient layer can be placed directly on the bottom of the planting holes, on the drainage layer.

A large amount of nutrients is required for abundant and long-lasting flowering. Drainage for better drainage of moisture from the roots is made from broken brick, clay shards, gravel or river pebbles.

It is advisable to add wood ash or small pieces of charcoal to the soil - these components will serve as additional nutrition and make the substrate looser and more breathable. Also, when planting, a small amount of mineral fertilizers is mixed in - it is advisable to use potassium-phosphorus preparations.

1. A small amount of prepared nutrient substrate is poured onto the drainage and the bush is placed in the hole.
2. When planting, the depth must be observed - the root collar of the bush must be at ground level.
3. The buddleja is sprinkled with earth, which is then compacted well and watered with plenty of water.
4. After planting, the soil surface is mulched with mown grass, straw and fallen leaves. Mulch will prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly from the soil surface and weeds from growing.

With proper planting, the first inflorescences can decorate the bush 3 weeks after being located in a permanent place. 

Further care will consist of timely watering, weeding and fertilizing.

When growing in open ground, the soil must be loosened periodically, but this should be done with extreme caution, since the root system is horizontal and lies too close to the surface of the earth.

The first wintering will be a real test for the seedlings, for which the plant must be prepared in advance. In the fall, before the onset of frost, the stems are cut at a height of about 15 cm, and the root system is additionally hilled, sprinkled with a layer of earth on top.

On a fine and dry day, the buddleja is prepared for winter with the help of a shelter. From above, the shoots are covered with non-woven material or sprinkled with fallen leaves or spruce branches, a wooden or plastic box with holes is placed, and a layer of polyethylene is laid on it. The shelter is sprinkled with fallen snow.

As the buddleja matures, it will be easier and easier to endure wintering in open ground.

In the spring, do not rush to remove the cover - the stems can suffer at night subzero temperatures.

Sometimes, even despite all the measures taken, the plants suffer greatly from frost and their entire above-ground part dies. Do not immediately dig up such specimens from the ground and send them to the landfill - new shoots can appear from the roots.

Do not cover in cloudy and rainy weather - if droplets of water remain on the leaves and stems under the cover, the green mass can simply rot.

Sometimes in open ground, buddleja behaves like a weed - it quickly grows and takes up all the free space.

Shrubs grown outdoors need timely pruning - the seeds remaining on the plant after the inflorescences wither, fall off and easily form self-seeding.

Reproduction, growing from seeds 

Buddleja is propagated in late winter or spring by sowing seeds, root suckers or stem cuttings in late summer.

Seeds for sowing can be collected independently from flowering bushes. Collection is carried out in warm and dry weather.

Seed germination reaches 80 percent and remains at this level for a long period of time - about 3 - 5 years. The highest germination can be achieved by sowing seeds in neutral or slightly acidic soil; in an alkaline substrate, germination may decrease.

Sowing is carried out in the spring.

1. For sowing, take a plastic container with drainage holes at the bottom and a lid.
2. Drainage in the form of expanded clay, polystyrene foam or river pebbles is placed at the bottom of the container.
3. Fill the container with nutritious and loose substrate.
4. Moistening the soil is done using a fine spray bottle. Watering from a watering can is unacceptable, as the stream of water will erode the soil.
5. As a pre-sowing preparation, the seeds should be placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator for 2 - 3 months, where they will be at a temperature of 2 - 3 ° C, thus going through a period of cool stratification.
6. Sow on the surface of the soil. Since the buddleja seeds are quite small, they can be pre-mixed with a small amount of coarse river sand. There is no need to cover the planting material with soil on top - just press it lightly into the surface of the soil with your fingertips.
7. To maintain uniformly high humidity and create a greenhouse effect, the crops are covered with a transparent plastic cover or glass.
8. Containers with seedlings are placed in a warm place with a temperature of 23 - 25 degrees Celsius.

The location should be brightly lit, but not exposed to direct sunlight.

If sowing is done in February, then artificial lighting with fluorescent or phytolamps should be provided for the seedlings, since the duration of daylight hours at this time is too short. Bushes grown in conditions of insufficient lighting will be loose and elongated.

Remove the cover for a few minutes every day and remove the condensation from them. The first shoots can appear as early as 2-3 weeks after sowing - at this time, the cover is completely removed.

Even with the most careful care, up to half of the emerging shoots often die.

The seedlings are grown until 3-4 true leaves, after which they are planted in separate small pots. Picking is carried out with special care, since the root system is too fragile and is easily damaged during transplantation.

10-15 days after picking, water with a very weak solution of mineral fertilizers.

For cuttings, take non-flowering annual semi-woody shoots 15-20 cm long with 2-3 internodes. In the autumn months, fully woody cuttings will successfully root.

1. The cuttings are separated with sharp pruning shears and the bases are dusted with growth hormones.
2. The lower cut of the cuttings should be oblique, it should be located under the leaf node at a distance of 1 cm.
3. Leaf blades can be shortened by 1/3 of their length to reduce unwanted moisture loss.
4. Rooting is carried out in a nutritious and loose substrate - for example, in a mixture of humus and river sand. 
5. The cuttings are immersed in the soil by 2 - 3 cm and covered with a plastic bag so that it does not come into direct contact with the plants.
6. Every day the lid is removed and the leaves are sprayed with room temperature water from a spray bottle.
7. The container with the cuttings is placed in a warm place with a temperature of 22 - 23 °C without direct sunlight. 

The successful completion of the rooting process can be said when the plants begin to show the first signs of growth - young leaves and shoots appear. Buddleja rooting takes from 2 weeks to 2 months.

Plants obtained vegetatively or by cuttings are capable of producing the first inflorescences already in the first year of life and completely retain the appearance of the varietal mother bushes. Seedlings are planted in open ground at the age of 1 year.

The easiest way of reproduction is to separate root shoots that appear from time to time near adult specimens.

When does bloom?

Flowering is abundant, even in the first year after planting, and long-lasting - from July to October. 

Care and pruning 

Buddleja is an extremely unpretentious species - it does not require special care or specific conditions of maintenance and forgives many mistakes of novice gardeners.

The height is controlled by formative pruning. After flowering, you can cut the stems in half to maintain a compact shape.

Flowers are formed on the growths of the current year. The stems of the second year are cut so that only 2 buds remain at their base. Thus, a dense and lush crown will form over several years.

In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, removing old, diseased shoots.

It is necessary to cut off old, wilting inflorescences - this measure will preserve the pleasant appearance of the bush and force it to form new inflorescences.

Pruning is carried out only with sharply sharpened and sterilized tools.

If over time the bush takes up more and more free space, it can be rejuvenated. During rejuvenating pruning, all stems are cut almost to the base, leaving only 20 cm of growth.

The plant easily tolerates even the most drastic pruning and easily grows back. Without pruning, it becomes too loose and disheveled.

Buddleya will appreciate being outdoors in the warm season - take it outside, sheltering it from direct sunlight, strong wind and rain.

Diseases and pests 

• Avoid prolonged drought, as this will result in significant leaf loss; water the flower on time.
• Overwatering and insufficient drainage can cause rotting of the roots.
• Too much deepening during planting leads to a lack of flowering and even the appearance of rot.
• Buddleja does not bloom if it lacks light or nutrients.
• If there is insufficient air circulation, black leg may develop.
• Contact with direct sunlight on leaves with droplets of moisture can cause burns.
• Excessive nitrogen in the soil will promote the growth of green mass to the detriment of flowering.
• Gray mold appears when the environment is too cold and damp, and when there is insufficient air circulation.

Harmful insects are quite rare, sometimes these are spider mites when kept too dry and hot, whiteflies, nematodes. When grown in open ground, the plant can be attacked by slugs and snails.

Transplanting

Transplant the buddleja into a larger pot only when the roots completely occupy the substrate. The need for transplantation can be said when the tips of the root system appear in the drainage holes of the pot.

Young specimens need to be replanted annually to increase the volume of the pot, while adult bushes can be replanted every 2-3 years.

If the flower has reached an impressive size and replanting it causes difficulties, then in the spring the top layer of soil 5-7 cm thick is simply changed to fresh, annually.

Transplantation is carried out in the spring, when the plants are just beginning to develop, but before flowering.

Instead of transplanting, it is better to use transshipment. With this method, the plant is transferred to a new container together with the old lump of earth, without destroying it. Transshipment will be the least traumatic for the root system, the seedlings will take root faster in a new place and begin to grow.

Buddleja reacts negatively to damage to the root system during transplantation and can delay the onset of flowering.

If there are signs of root rot, then it is necessary to replant with a complete replacement of the substrate.

For planting, select a pot with large drainage holes, exceeding the previous container in diameter by 4 - 5 cm. Large containers should not be offered - an excess amount of soil will retain moisture, which, in turn, will cause rotting.

1. First of all, a sufficient layer of drainage in the form of large expanded clay and river pebbles is placed at the bottom of the planting pot. You can also use broken bricks as a drainage layer.
2. The top of the drainage is sprinkled with a small layer of substrate.
3. When replanting, the plants are removed from the old soil and the roots are carefully shaken off the ground.
4. The root system is inspected and, if necessary, roots affected by rot or other diseases are removed, cutting them back to healthy tissue. Old roots are also trimmed. Pruning is carried out only with a sharply sharpened sterile pruner or knife.
5. The cut areas are sprinkled with crushed charcoal powder. 

When both transshipping and replanting, it is necessary to maintain the planting depth and place the plants at the same level they were in the previous pot.

After planting, the soil is carefully compacted to remove air pockets and watered generously until completely wet. If, after watering, holes appear as a result of the soil settling, then fresh soil should be added to the pot.

The bushes are left in the shade from direct sunlight, and the first feeding after transplanting is carried out after 2-3 weeks.

Transplanting or replanting flowering specimens is carried out only in emergency cases.

Soil 

Well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5 to 7.0, buddleja can also be grown in soil with an alkaline pH of up to 8.5. Representatives of the genus adapt well to various soil conditions.

The substrate can be prepared on the basis of leaf and turf humus, garden soil with a small amount of peat and humus.

To improve drainage, add coarse river sand, perlite or vermiculite.

For additional nutrition and loosening of the substrate, a small amount of charcoal is mixed into the soil.

Feeding

Potted plants have a limited feeding area and require regular fertilizing.

Buddleja responds well to both mineral and organic fertilizers and forms many large inflorescences in response to care.

From spring to late summer, fertilize every 2 weeks with a diluted standard mineral fertilizer for flowering species.

Mineral fertilizers are applied only to moist soil, after abundant watering. The concentration of the nutrient solution can be reduced by 2 times.

If too concentrated fertilizers get on the root system in dry soil, it can cause burns.

Organic matter is applied in the form of cow or horse manure, humus or a weak solution of chicken manure. The best results are achieved by alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.

Fertilizers are applied only during the period of active growth and budding. After flowering, in the fall, the frequency of feeding and the composition of the nutrient solution are gradually reduced to zero, and in the winter months, no feeding is done at all.

Feeding should be resumed in the spring, when young leaves appear.

Temperature

Buddleja is thermophilic and during the period of active growth it is kept at room temperature or slightly above it. The plant tolerates summer heat well with increased air and soil humidity.

A cool winter is necessary so that the bush can rest and gain strength for subsequent flowering. Also, a decrease in air temperature will lead to the shoots developing more slowly - the growth that appears in conditions of insufficient lighting will be loose and painful. The minimum temperature during wintering is about 7 ° C.

Lighting

Full sun or partial shade, does not bloom in the shade. Shoots and leaves should take sun baths in the morning and evening every day.

During hot daytime hours in summer and spring, when solar activity is too high, the plant should be shaded with a light tulle curtain.

In autumn and winter, it is worth providing the most illuminated place.

Rotate the pot a quarter of a turn around its axis every week to form a strong and symmetrical bush and prevent the stems from stretching towards the light source.

The most suitable for growing buddleja are eastern or western windowsills; when growing on the north side, sufficient artificial lighting must be provided.

Watering 

Moderate watering with warm water all year round.  In spring and summer, between waterings, the substrate is dried to a depth of 2-3 cm.

In autumn, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced, and in the winter months, if the plant is in a cool room, watering can be kept to a minimum, simply protecting the soil from drying out completely.

For irrigation, use well-settled tap water at or above room temperature.

Excess moisture that appears in the pan after watering must be drained after a few minutes.

Young specimens will need regular and abundant watering, which is carried out until the substrate in the pot is completely soaked. With age, the bushes will tolerate drought more easily than even a short-term flood.

Purpose

Attractive, abundantly flowering and lilac-like shrubs will decorate almost any garden. The unpretentiousness of buddleja has allowed it to become widespread in landscape design. 

Air humidity

On hot spring and summer days, the leaves can be sprayed with water at room temperature. Spraying is carried out only in the first half of the day, so that droplets of moisture do not remain on the leaves at night.

When spraying, make sure that moisture does not get on the flowers and buds - they can lose their attractive appearance.

To increase humidity, you can also use a decorative fountain or any container with water placed next to the plant.

You can put the pot on a tray filled with wet gravel - the water evaporating from its surface will naturally humidify the atmosphere for a long period of time. Make sure that the surface of the water does not directly touch the bottom of the pot.

Do not place the bush near heating sources in the winter months.

The flower will appreciate a well-ventilated room with sufficient air movement. Do not place the pot with buddleja in corridors and passages where there may be cold drafts.

Note

The juice from the leaves may be irritating to  the surface of the hands, especially for people who have sensitive skin.

Large colorful clusters of flowers from a shrub planted in the garden will attract many butterflies to the area.

You should be careful when planting buddleja in open ground - it will be extremely difficult to get rid of it later. The shrub easily withstands many unfavorable conditions and is able to recover even from a small piece of root left in the soil.

Varieties:

Buddleja Davidii

A beautifully flowering multi-stemmed shrub up to 5 m high, it was named after the priest Armand David, who first wrote down a description of the plants. The plant develops quickly, has opposite, simple, oblong-lanceolate leaves up to 20 cm long. The flowers are small, fragrant, in shades of lilac, purple, white, yellow or pink, collected in large apical racemes. 

Most modern varieties are bred on the basis of this particular plant. 

Buddleja davidii "Royal Red"

Abundantly branching shrub up to 1.5 m high with narrow lanceolate green or bluish green leaves. During the flowering period, the plant forms large fragrant racemes up to 25 cm long with many crimson or burgundy flowers.

Buddleja davidii "Black Knight"

Large flowering deciduous shrubs with a rounded crown up to 3.5 m high. The leaves are green, lanceolate, located opposite. The plant has large apical racemes up to 20 cm long, consisting of a large number of spectacular, fragrant, dark purple, almost black flowers.

Buddleja davidii "Flower Power"

A spectacular flowering plant, the main distinguishing feature of which is large inflorescences - brushes, painted in 2 shades. Unopened buds of this variety have a purple hue, while opening flowers have a pink tint, and once open flowers turn salmon or orange. 

Buddleja davidii "Nanho Blue"

Compact deciduous shrub up to 1.5 m high with gray-green oblong leaves and large clusters up to 25 cm long, consisting of soft lilac or blue flowers. The flowering period is very long, begins in June and continues until mid-autumn. 

Buddleja davidii "Adonis Blue"

Shrubs with bluish-green or gray-green foliage, during the flowering period they form long, narrow racemes with small lavender flowers. 

Buddleja davidii "Empire blue"

Relatively compact shrubs up to 2 m high with green narrow-lanceolate opposite leaves and long (up to 25 cm) clusters of dark blue fragrant flowers. 

Buddleja davidii "Harlequin"

This variety can be safely classified as both flowering and decorative foliage plants, because in addition to large flower clusters of a rich purple hue, it has attractive foliage. The green leaf blades along the edges are painted white or cream.  

Buddleja "Ile de France"

A large deciduous shrub up to 2.5 m high with erect branched shoots, green narrow leaves and long conical racemes of fragrant pink or purple flowers. 

Buddleja davidii "Gulliver"

"Gulliver" is a compact deciduous shrub up to 1.75 m high with spear-shaped, gray-green leaves. A distinctive feature of the variety is its very large inflorescences - apical panicles up to 30 cm long with lilac fragrant flowers. 

Buddleja x weyeriana

Beautiful flowering shrubs bred during the First World War by the military man, Major William van de Weyerer. A distinctive feature of the plants is the golden-orange or yellow hue of the flowers. Weyer's buddleja often forms not the usual brushes, but spherical inflorescences or brushes, which contain several such rounded formations at once. 

Buddleja weyeriana "Sungold"

A charming flowering shrub with grayish-green lanceolate leaves and golden clusters of small fragrant flowers. 

Buddleja alternifolia

Deciduous multi-stemmed shrub with thin, often drooping shoots. The leaves are small, lanceolate, gray-green. During the flowering period, the plant is abundantly covered with long (up to 50 cm), hanging inflorescences of lilac flowers and its appearance resembles a weeping willow.